Page 58 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT

Handicrafts & Carpets Related Theory for Exercise 1.8.44-51
Hand Embroidery Artisan - Gift Items

Different designs

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• define jugnni
• define tixxi
• define tout / watti tout
• define duwalut
• define shudani and cudani.

Jugnni Tixxi as the “base stitch” of Sozni, just like “satin stitch”
in general embroidery, but finer and more compact.
In Kashmiri embroidery, Jugni (also called Juggni/
Jugenni) is a leaf-shaped motif, often elongated and Wati Tout” in Kashmiri Embroidery
curved, used as a filler or border element in Sozni work. “Wati” in Kashmiri can mean a rounded or coiled shape,
Sometimes people pronounce or spell it slightly differently sometimes referring to a knot or floral bud in design
as jiggni/jiggini. language.
Sozni
“Tout” is likely a local pronunciation or variation for
• It is a small motif, usually almond or paisley-like in “thread” or “motif” used in artisan workshops to describe
structure. a specific pattern style or stitch element.
• It can be stitched in single or multiple layers depending So, “Wati Tout” might refer to
on the design. A circular floral or coiled motif used in Kashmiri hand
• Often used along with flowers, vines, or chinar leaves embroidery, particularly in Sozni or Aari work often done
in Kashmiri shawl patterns. with precision to represent blooming buds or coiled vines.
Tixxi What is “Duwalut” in Sozni Embroidery?
• In Sozni embroidery, Tixxi is one of the fundamental “Duwalut” refers to a double-sided Sozni embroidery
stitching techniques. technique — one of the most intricate and highly skilled
forms of needlework in Kashmir.
• It is not a motif, but a style of laying the thread while
embroidering. Key features of Duwalut Sozni
Meaning of Tixxi in Sozni Double-Sided Perfection

• The word Tixxi refers to closely packed, parallel, The embroidery appears identical on both sides of the
slanting stitches. fabric.
• The stitches are placed very fine and close together There’s no visible knot, loose thread, or backing both
so that no fabric is visible between them. sides are mirror images.
• It gives the embroidery a smooth, satin-like finish. Requires extreme precision and years of mastery.
• Usually worked with silk threads on pashmina/wool Mostly Done on
base. Pure Pashmina shawls and stoles (lightweight and fine).
Features of Tixxi
Occasionally on high-grade wool or silk, but Pashmina
• Stitches are short, neat, and uniform. is traditional.
• Creates a flat surface without bulges. Motifs

• Often used for filling motifs such as leaves, petals, or Floral vines, chinar leaves, paisleys, birds.
small almond (badaam) shapes.
The arrangement is often symmetrical due to the double-
• Requires high precision and patience, as uneven sided nature.
spacing can spoil the design.
Threads
Uses in Sozni Shawls Fine silk or cotton threads in subtle, elegant colors.
• Borders: To fill thin vines and outlines.
Unlike Aari or Crewel, Sozni (including Duwalut) avoids
• Motifs: Chinar leaves, flowers, jugni, badaam. bold or raised textures.

• Dual-sided Shawls (Duwolut): Tixxi is especially Why It’s special: Duwalut pieces are collector’s items
important because it looks neat on both sides. expensive, rare, and labor-intensive.

48